Leon

A Leon Mural depicting casualties of the revolution

Folk Art in the Leon Zocalo

Views from the Catedral

Leon scene

Leon is, by New World standards, a very old city. This pastel colonial gem is a small city of Cathedrals and volcanoes, active on both counts. Leon also claims itself as the center of the revolution of the Sandanistas against the forces of the Somoza regime. Anastasio Somoza came to power in 1936. He took power in the time-honoured Latin America custom of bloodshed, a legacy his family would continue in their stranglehold of power. The iron grip maintained by the Somoza family was aided significantly by many dollars from US Corporations and the US government, direct payments to the family that went on for many decades.

The disastrous Managua earthquake of 1972 caused widespread suffering in Nicaragua and the misuse of resulting international aid focused attention on the corruption of the regime. Revolutionary violence sprung out in many parts of the country, much of it centered in Leon. By 1979, the Sandinistas were in power and a new era began in Nicaragua. Thus endeth the small history lesson, with due credit to Al Gore's internet for research aid. I hasten to add, however, since I am a geezer; during this time I was actively marching in the streets of Seattle in support of the FSLN.

Leaving our beach paradise on Monday morning, the Bozo Bus threaded the narrow cobblestone streets and dropped us near the zolcalo. After a blisteringly fast money exchange, with wads of cash fished from a bulging fanny pack worn by a guy on the street corner (Colin approved!) we headed for the Catedral.

Leon is dominated by the Catedral. Half of the baroque block-square structure sports a patina of volcanic dust, time and exhaust fumes, which have coated the building a mottled gray. The other half is the gleaming white of newly-restored plaster work, concrete and smooth stone. During the revolution, the FSLN fought some sharp battles with Somozasistas around and in the cathedral. One explosive charge set by the FSLN burned all of the paint from the walls and ceilings of a chapel, but spared the painting of Christ. It was a miracle.

We soaked up the peace of the interior of the nave and apse. We threaded through the narrow stairs and passages towards the roof, bonking our heads on low-hanging beams even after warning each other of the low-hanging beams. Bozos indeed. We sweated bullets on the roof beneath the basilica as we took in the view of the surround churches and volcanoes. Finally, in the catacombs, we breathed the dank air redolent of cheap pine-sol disinfectant, as we viewed the privileged dead and the bricked over entrances to the tunnel network.

Alas, our morning in Leon passed, we clambered back aboard the Bozo-Bus for the two hour trek to our final destination: Esteli, the cigar capitol of Nicaragua.

Onward Bozos!!